K&n makes oil filters but they're about $15 ea. Not worth buying unless they're bunded with the oil which happens every so often. Otherwise as long as you change your oil filter each time you change oil then your normal brand oil filter (fram, mobil1, bosch, purolator) will do.
I change my oil because i know its done right, plus my dad taught me the basics of car maintenance when I was young and it stuck. And it's also a simple task that takes less than 30 mins and saves money.
Run a K&N air filter. The K&N oil filter is good if you plan to run fully synthetic oil that is changed every 10k miles. With Mobil 1 full synthetic and oil analysis at 5000 miles on my Audi, the lab mentioned that I could probably change oil every 7500 - 10000 miles (depending on your driving conditions). Fork out extra money for an OEM infiniti/nissan (murano?) or better than orange fram oil filter if you change oil after 5000 miles. If you change oil every 3333 miles, then the oil filter won't really matter because you change it so often- don't waste $15 on an oil filter.
I maintain our Volvo XC70, Subaru Outback, Ford F250, Chevelle, and MasterCraft boat. That includes oil, filters, brake rotors/pads, etc. When it's time, I also do wheel bearings, struts and shocks, and stuff like that. I have pulled the motor and transmission multiple times from the Chevelle. I have a 4 post car lift in my garage that can raise my cars about 6' to work on them. That doesn't make me an expert, but I do read a good bit of car stuff.
I use Mobile 1 in everything. I buy 5 qt jugs at WalMart for about $25. I use $8 Wix filters, which are generally considered to be the best. You can get them at NAPA, labeled as NAPA parts. No motor-head guys use the "orange filters", which are considered to be inferior.
Oh, yeah, it's good practice to use conventional "dino" (dinosaur, as the motorheads call it) oil for the first 10K miles. It's not as slippery, and allows the rings to "seat" better in the cylinder walls. If you look in the cylinders of a new engine, you see a cross-hatched hone pattern they use as a final finish. It's a little rough, which wears the rings so that they wear together for a perfect fit. If you use synthetic, which is super slick, the hone roughness gets glided over instead of allowing the crucial wearing. After a period of time, the roughness gets "glazed", which is work hardening. After that, the rings can't wear any more, and you can end up with low compression from ring blow by because the two don't fit. There are opposing theories on this, but trust me, nearly all real motorheads, guys who build engines and see what's going on, subscribe to this.