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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well the 3,750 miles came quickly so it was time to change the oil.

Some observations:
*The JX oil change is very easy. Everything is easily accessible.
*I put it up on ramps but it may be possible to do the whole job without ramps.
*Oil filter is accessible from the passenger side front wheel well. Just pull back the splash guard (or take it off) and there it is! See pic (photo taken from below looking up.)
*The oil fill well is deep. You need a good long funnel to get the oil in without a mess.

Hope this helps.

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Well the 3,750 miles came quickly so it was time to change the oil.

Some observations:
*The JX oil change is very easy. Everything is easily accessible.
*I put it up on ramps but it may be possible to do the whole job without ramps.
*Oil filter is accessible from the passenger side front wheel well. Just pull back the splash guard (or take it off) and there it is! See pic (photo taken from below looking up.)
*The oil fill well is deep. You need a good long funnel to get the oil in without a mess.

Hope this helps.

View attachment 314
Thanks for posting... any info on the torque settings for the drain plug / filter?

I can't believe Infiniti/Nissan are still using these old style filters.
 

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I've looked at it, it looks like you pull the filter, and the oil runs straight down on the subframe. And makes a mess??? How did you do it?

From our Mallfinder manual, the VQ35DE drain plug is 22-29 ft*lb. Filter is touch the gasket and go 2/3 of a turn more.

I'm going to do my oil and filter at 500 miles to get the manufacturing guck out that was left in the oil galleys, lifter ledges, etc. The first change on my new motors, I cut the filter canister apart, remove the filter media, and stretch the pleats out to see what's in there. I've found large "#6 chips" in one motor's filter.

By the way, does anyone know what kind of lifters these motors have? If they're rollers, no problem on break in. If they're flat tappet, there could be some magic break in oil from the factory that needs to stay in a while. Yes, some manufacturers do that they put in additives with extra zinc and phosphorus.
 

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I've looked at it, it looks like you pull the filter, and the oil runs straight down on the subframe. And makes a mess??? How did you do it?

From our Mallfinder manual, the VQ35DE drain plug is 22-29 ft*lb. Filter is touch the gasket and go 2/3 of a turn more.

I'm going to do my oil and filter at 500 miles to get the manufacturing guck out that was left in the oil galleys, lifter ledges, etc. The first change on my new motors, I cut the filter canister apart, remove the filter media, and stretch the pleats out to see what's in there. I've found large "#6 chips" in one motor's filter.

By the way, does anyone know what kind of lifters these motors have? If they're rollers, no problem on break in. If they're flat tappet, there could be some magic break in oil from the factory that needs to stay in a while. Yes, some manufacturers do that they put in additives with extra zinc and phosphorus.

gibbons, I'm not that familiar with these Japanese cars but a lot of German manufacturers use break-in oil and it might be benefitical to leave it in the engine for a while.


Thanks for the Pathfinder drain plug specs. Looks to be the same as the EX35
Drain plug tightening torque: 22 to 29 ft-lb
Oil filter tightening torque: 11 to 15 ft-lb
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've looked at it, it looks like you pull the filter, and the oil runs straight down on the subframe. And makes a mess???
Exactly. The filter is horizontal and located just above the frame so it does drop on the frame. I had apan big enough to span both sides of the frame so it caught most all of the oil that dripped. One or two shop towels cleaned up the rest. Maybe next time a piece of tin or cut up gallon jug may be in order to help better deflect the oil into the pan.

I also pre-fill the filter with oil. Since it installs horizontally this means you can only pre-fill just a little.
 

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Most of these type of filters are usually around 30 ft lbs. I hate cleaning up the oil on the frame afterwards.. No idea why they design them like this.
 

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gibbons, I'm not that familiar with these Japanese cars but a lot of German manufacturers use break-in oil and it might be benefitical to leave it in the engine for a while.
I agree. From my experience, most cars have break-in oil from the factory.
 

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Ah, it wouldn't be a first oil change thread without the great break-in oil myth...

http://www.cartalk.com/content/how-long-does-break-oil-need-stay-car
That article is from 1991 in a blog with 2 guys named Tom and Ray. Did a quick skim of their BIO's and don't think either of them is an oil expert. :)
There have been a lot of guys hanging out on other forums like Bob is the oil guy who have sent their oil samples to places like Blackstone Labs for analysis. A lot of manufacturers have gone to extended OCI's and have done a lot of research into tightening up oil specs.

From what I can tell, Nissan/Infiniti doesn't really care much about the type of oil - they have pretty basic oil requirements.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well...Tom and Ray did say that they did speak to top oilologists about this. That's good enough for me! Many of their 3.3 million NPR talk show listeners may agree too.

The president of Blackstone is mentioned here http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/top-7-urban-legends-about-motor-oil.html as stating that based on their analysis that Honda is the only manufacturer that appears to use a different oil for break-in (higher in moly.) Others explain the high moly levels from the manufacturing process http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2820526

In any case, I have never been able to find a factory part number for a so-called "break in" oil.
 

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On NPR? :) That station makes a big deal over weird crap like the mating rituals of Zimbabwian beetles, too. It seems like the nuttier it gets, the more some liberals think it deserves funding to continue to enrich our lives. Those guys know a lot about cars, but tend to dwell on agenda topics.

Having done some engine building myself, though by no means am I an expert, I do know there are break in oils. Here's one, there are probably 10 other brands on that site. This one has zinc and phosphorus, like I mentioned above:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rpo-11487

And here is a factory part number for a break in oil additive:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-88862586

I know the LT-1 Corvette motor in our MasterCraft tournament ski boat had that EOS additive in the oil from the factory, the GM Powertrain guys said don't change it too soon. EOS was recommended for breaking the zz502 motor I put in our Chevelle, too. If you read the product descriptions, you will see what they do for a new engine. I actually thought about putting some in the Pathfinder.

I'm guessing that most dealer techs would have no idea what's in them from the factory. It would be nice to be able to call Nissan and get a question routed to the guy who specifies or purchases the oil, but I know that's impossible. Count the number of cup holders, and let your senses transcend your expectations of what a car can be. They think that's what matters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No, no, you misunderstood my challenge. I understand there are lots of oil makers that make break-in oils, I'm looking for an automobile manufacturer factory part number for break-in oil. I just don't think one exists. Does honda provide quarts of break-in oil for use when you rebuild and engine with a new block or pistons, versus oil change oil when you want to buy replacement oil.
 

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This is a GM part number for break in oil 88862587.

Sorry about the NPR jab. It's an on-going topic of debate with my son and me. He likes it, I am entertained by it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
gibbons: Peace, YOU WIN.

My rebuke to the "break-in" oil posts are in the context of the JX and any other mass market, factory delivered engines. The links I provided support my position. You have offered nothing to counter this in mass applications. Your responses have all been about craft, specialty built engines. I understand the availabilty and use of break in oil in these applications.

I have a pet peeve about these, "some guy told me this car has break-in oil..." posts. I'm working on it... My guess is that these stories are perpetrated by stealers to unsuspecting customers as a scare tactic to get them to return for maintenance.

But by now I've probably missed out on a few good NPR shows and I'm sure you need to get back to your hot rod... :)

For everyone else, if you have any mechanical ability, have in interest in saving time and money, then by all means go ahead and change the oil yourself. It's easy to do.
 

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What does break in oil have to do with changing your oil. The break in oil is in there for the beginning of the engines life. After that what oil you put is up to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
What does break in oil have to do with changing your oil. The break in oil is in there for the beginning of the engines life. After that what oil you put is up to you.
If the manufacturer states to use the break-in oil for the first x miles and you decide to change it earlier then you might want to continue to use break-in oil until x miles.
 

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Hey closenough, I wasn't trying to battle you, I was just trying make sure I didn't so something dumb!

I can't even find out if these motors have roller lifters. If they do, I won't worry much about it dumping the original oil. Break in oil mainly helps get the cam lobes and lifter interfaces nicely burnished.

As for rings, I have my own thoughts on that. My motor has already danced on the redline a couple of times within 300 miles. Only a second or two, but I believe that puts enough stretch the rods to let the piston fly out to it's maximum excursion. I think while the final hone is there, it's the perfect friction to seat the rings quickly, instead of glazing the cylinder walls babying them..
 

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Couple points. Yes, the oil does run all over the cross-member and makes a big mess. And whoever said the tightening torque for the oil filter is 30 ft lbs is out to lunch. 2/3 to 3/4 of a turn after the the gasket contacts the housing. No more.
 

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Hey closenough, I wasn't trying to battle you, I was just trying make sure I didn't so something dumb!

I can't even find out if these motors have roller lifters. If they do, I won't worry much about it dumping the original oil. Break in oil mainly helps get the cam lobes and lifter interfaces nicely burnished.

As for rings, I have my own thoughts on that. My motor has already danced on the redline a couple of times within 300 miles. Only a second or two, but I believe that puts enough stretch the rods to let the piston fly out to it's maximum excursion. I think while the final hone is there, it's the perfect friction to seat the rings quickly, instead of glazing the cylinder walls babying them..
gibbons, let's not turn this into a motoman engine break in discussion! :)
There's a lot of speculation that you only have a small period of time to break in an engine properly. Especially in a lot of cars that are now using harder materials like Alusil. I've know a number of people who have followed this with their german cars with much success (i.e. no/negligible oil burning unlike others who have decided to baby their engines). Don't know enough about the VQ to make any qualifying statements regarding breakin....
 

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Couple points. Yes, the oil does run all over the cross-member and makes a big mess. And whoever said the tightening torque for the oil filter is 30 ft lbs is out to lunch. 2/3 to 3/4 of a turn after the the gasket contacts the housing. No more.
I've changed the oil a few times on our old EX35 and 2/3 - 3/4 sounds about right. 11-15 ft lb puts things in that range (from what I could see anyways)

My family used to have a car that dumped oil all over the chassis. We'd have to cleanup and would sometimes get oil drips for a few days (even when oil was changed at the dealer). Least they could do is use one of those new cartridge type filters that have a drain.
 
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